January 2004
The guidelines to use when choosing and buying your first PC are essentially no
different from those that apply to any computer or, for that matter, any
purchase. It requires that you define your needs, see what's available, and try
to make the best possible match. In the pages that follow we look at the various
uses to which a computer can be put, and at the various ways a computer can be
configured to perform the tasks associated with those tasks.
The Types of Personal Computer
Personal computers are available in three basic hardware configurations,
sometimes called form factors, so the first thing to do is eliminate two of them
from consideration. The first configuration is the standard desktop PC, called
that because the main component used to be a horizontal box that sat, you
guessed it, on the desk. Although the vast majority of desktop PCs are now
vertical boxes, called towers, that sit on the floor, they're still called
desktop systems. To be fair, the screen (called, in computerese, the monitor)
and keyboard still sit on the desk. The advantages of a desktop system include:
low cost relative to the two alternatives; flexibility of configuration, both at
the time of purchase and afterwards; upgradeability (which is really a subset of
flexibility); and reliability. The primary drawbacks to a desktop system are its
size and lack of portability.
The second configuration is the laptop which, like the desktop, doesn't quite live up to its name. Also called a notebook, a laptop consists of a single slab-like rectangular component that's hinged on one of its long sides. The lid serves as the laptop's display, and when open reveals the keyboard. The portion that houses the keyboard is also home to the rest of the components that make up the PC. The laptop's primary advantages are its portability and the related ability to run on internal battery power. Even if you never take the laptop out of your house, these traits make it unnecessary to devote a portion of your living space to the computer. A laptop can be kept in a drawer, or on a closet shelf, and plopped down wherever convenient when it's needed.
The first price paid for this convenience comes directly out of your pocket: laptops are considerably more expensive than similarly-equipped and equally powerful desktop systems. Because all of its components must be crammed into a tiny space, each costs more than its desktop equivalent. As a result, the price differential becomes greater as more and better components are added to each type of system. Of course, the small amount of space within a laptop's chassis severely limits its configuration and upgrade potential. Finally, laptops generally have a shorter lifespan than desktops. Heat is the enemy of all electronic components, and the tight spaces within a laptop chassis mitigate against optimum cooling. As a result, while most desktops can be counted on to operate long after their technology has been rendered obsolete by several succeeding generations, laptops often fail in one way or other after a few intense years of operation.
The third configuration consists of systems that offer a combination of the laptop's space-saving appeal and a nod towards the greater configuration options provided by desktop systems. These systems are often dubbed space-savers, and when viewed from a fairly narrow perspective they appear to live up to that name. Lacking the desktop system's monolithic tower, they can sit on, without dominating, a desk or table. In general, though, space-savers don't have much more expansion potential than the laptop systems with which they often share primary components. They cost more than desktop systems, and aren't quite as easily tucked away as laptops. They're often very stylish, though.
As you might infer from the tone of our descriptions of each type, we're
inclined to recommend a conventional desktop system to anyone who doesn't have a
pressing, well-defined reason to choose a laptop or space-saver.
Matching the Hardware to the Tasks
In the absolute, almost any contemporary name-brand off-the-shelf PC is capable
of handling the vast majority of tasks to which it's likely to be turned. (That
statement presupposes, of course, that a PC that's going to be used to burn CDs
or play DVD movies is equipped with a drive designed for the purpose.) Even so,
if you can define your computing needs within the context of a few broad, and
overlapping, types of task, it will be easier to optimize the computer's
component mix and get the best value. We'll look at those components, and
discuss how each relates to real-world performance, a bit further on.
The tasks most often associated with PCs operating in a business environment are handled by programs broadly called productivity applications. Prominent examples of this type of program are word processors, spreadsheets, database managers, and desktop publishing. With the exception of some of the more elaborate desktop publishing programs, which can be both graphics- and memory-intensive, productivity applications make the fewest demands on their host PC.
It doesn't take too much of a leap to assume that, even if placed in a business environment, a computer is likely to be connected to the Internet. Whether in an office or at home, an Internet connection provides access to the World Wide Web, and serves as a conduit for e-mail, real-time text chat, and thousands of unmoderated newsgroups that cater to virtually any interest. These basic Internet-related chores are within the capability of any modern computer. It's possible, though, that certain types of Internet activity will tax the resources of a low-end system. For one thing, some Web sites act as multimedia servers and deliver streaming audio and video content. Smooth audio and video can require more processing power and memory than some basic systems offer. Those chores can also benefit from a more advanced display subsystem.
This leads to the most demanding type of tasks a computer must handle: multimedia and gaming. Multimedia is a catch-all term that encompasses audio and video. Although, strictly speaking, it's meant to describe processes that incorporate more than one medium, in the PC arena a less stringent interpretation is commonly applied. Thus, a computer's ability to play music files is counted as part of its multimedia arsenal. The creation of a slideshow from a collection of digital (or scanned) photos, and embellishing it with background music and/or narration, is a typical multimedia project. An even more ambitious project is to assemble video footage from various sources into a single, edited production, complete with titles, special effects, and other enhancements. Projects like that can be shared by burning them to a CD or DVD that can be viewed on a standard TV when played on a home DVD player.
The multimedia umbrella also covers games, which are the most demanding applications of all. To render and deliver full-motion video to a high resolution display requires computing power at, or at least near, the leading edge. That is why serious gamers--not an oxymoron--are willing to spend twice as much, or more, as what most buyers pay for a new system, and then tear it apart to make modifications intended to wring the last bit of potential out of the hardware. Aspects of system design that mean little or nothing to the average buyer are crucial to the gamer. Fortunately, you can get a good gaming machine without having to become a PC technician. Systems from the major PC manufacturers can be configured to run games without a hitch. All it takes is selecting the right components, and having a good line of credit on the Visa.
CPU
The core of a computer is its CPU (central processing unit). In fact, it's not
too much of a stretch to say that the CPU is the computer, at least as far as
most of the actual work is concerned. The processor's power, along with the
design of the motherboard into which it's plugged, will determine, to a great
extent, how fast the computer can do its job. When buying a first computer,
there's no need to be concerned about the design of the motherboard. Don't
worry, it will be fine. It's enough that we're going to ask you to think about
the CPU.
If you've watched TV at all over the last couple of years, you know that
Intel makes CPUs. Further, you know that they'd like you to make sure that the
computer you buy has one of its CPUs inside. In fact, it will take some effort
to find a computer that isn't powered by one of Intel's CPUs. This isn't to say
that the alternatives, the most prominent of which come from AMD, shouldn't be
considered. You'll find AMD processors in some systems bearing major names,
including Hewlett-Packard and Compaq. Still, they're the exception.
Intel's two major processor lines are called Celeron and Pentium. The Celeron
processor is used in entry-level machines, and is fine for basic productivity
and Internet chores. The Celeron's weak point is multimedia, for the Pentium's
MMX extensions (which provide direct support for various multimedia processes)
were omitted from its design.
The current mainstream Intel processor is the Pentium 4. There are several
versions of the Pentium 4, and each version can be had in any of several clock
speeds. The good news is that people buying their first computer don't need to
be concerned with the version. That's the job of the PC manufacturer. As far as
clock speed is concerned, it stands to reason that, all else being equal, higher
is better since the goal is for the CPU to get things done quickly.
So, what CPU should you choose? If price is the major concern, you'll save money
with a Celeron, but our inclination is to recommend a Pentium unless you know
that multimedia won't be an issue. As far as clock speed goes, only hard-core
gamers need to choose the fastest available. For all other purposes, it makes
sense to choose a CPU whose speed a level or two (or maybe three) below the
current top-of-the-line. This makes sense even for high-end multimedia
applications. For example, a typical system from one major manufacturer can be
had with either a 3.0 or 3.2GHz Pentium 4. Choosing the slightly slower
processor drops the price by a very useful $170. Even if the extra money isn't
an issue, it would be better spent elsewhere in the system.
Random Access Memory (RAM)
One good way to spend that extra money is on more RAM than the bare minimum
included with most entry level systems. Think of RAM as a waiting room, holding
raw data on its way to the CPU for processing, and processed data on its way
from the CPU on its way to other parts of the computer. This all happens very
quickly, unless there isn't enough physical memory available to handle a given
task. When that happens, the computer creates a secondary waiting room, on the
hard disk. This is called virtual memory. Data moves to and from the hard drive
at a much slower rate than is the case with actual RAM, and the result is
sluggish overall performance.
RAM is measured in MegaBytes (MB), but other than knowing the term, you don't
have to worry about what it means.
A typical entry-level system, built to sell at an attractive price point, will be equipped with 128MB of RAM. That's an amount we've found to be just borderline sufficient. Here's the thing: a significant portion of that RAM is needed just to run Windows and its various background tasks. That doesn't leave very much available for applications, which leads to that virtual memory situation we mentioned. Upgrading the memory to 256MB will have a significant impact on the performance of the system, and won't add a huge amount--certainly under $100--to the cost of the system. If you're looking for smooth multimedia performance, upping the RAM complement to 512MB is a good idea. Again, when weighed against the total cost of the machine we're not talking about big sums. It's possible to go well beyond 512MB, but the likelihood is slim that someone buying a first computer will need to do so.
It's worth noting, while the subject is money, that the company from which
you buy the computer isn't the only source of extra RAM. In fact, that company's
RAM upgrades will probably be considerably more expensive than buying the same
amount of RAM from another source, such as Crucial (www.crucial.com) or Kingston
(www.kingston.com). A spot check revealed that increasing a major manufacturer's
entry level system from 128MB to 256MB and 512MB would cost $70 and $150,
respectively. Buying the necessary modules from another source would cost $23
and $79 for the same upgrades. Of course, a first-time buyer might need to have
someone install that memory, but your neighborhood is full of 14 year-old
computer experts who'd be glad to do so.
Another Memory Consideration
Computers at the lower end of the price spectrum often incorporate the circuitry
needed to drive the display screen onto the motherboard. This type of design,
called embedded video, can work very well, especially in a system that's not
intended to run advanced multimedia applications. It does, however, have one
potentially serious drawback. Where separate display cards--which plug into a
special slot on the motherboard--are equipped with their own memory to handle
video chores, these embedded display adapters use system RAM for that purpose.
In a system with plenty of RAM, this isn't a problem, but it can contribute to
sluggish performance in one whose RAM complement is marginal to begin with.
We'll discuss the display system in more detail a bit further on. First, though,
there are a few more basic components to deal with.
The Hard Disk Drive
The hard disk drive is where all of the system's files are stored. These files
come in three categories: the operating system, which is generally Microsoft
Windows; applications, such as a word processor or music player; and documents,
which are the files which contain the data--music, text, pictures, video, et
al--that is opened by the various applications.
At the entry level, the first-time buyer has only to be concerned with one aspect of the hard drive: how much space it has available. That space is measured in Gigabytes, which is abbreviated GB, and which stands for roughly a billion bytes. In real-world terms, you can figure that 1GB of space can store 800 3-megapixel digital pictures, or roughly 1,000 four-minute sounds in MP3 format. The smallest drive you're likely to encounter in a low-priced system will probably have 40GB of space, and even if the system comes bundled with plenty of application software you're likely to have at least half that amount empty and available for your own document files. Full motion video takes up much more space than still photos or music files. An hour's worth of video shot on a MiniDV camcorder will take up about 13GB of drive space, and you'll need more space for the working and temporary files creating during editing.
Fortunately hard drives aren't terribly expensive these days. Upgrading one major company's entry level machine from 40GB to 80GB adds just $50 to the bottom line, while tripling the capacity by opting for a 120GB drive is a very reasonable $110. In both cases, the extra money buys not only more space but a drive that spins at a higher rate of speed, and which will therefore transfer data more quickly. If you're shopping at the high end, and want the next generation drive-to-PC connection, look for a system that supports the Serial ATA interface.
A faster drive won't have much of an impact at the entry level, but it's a
significant consideration at the higher end of the PC spectrum. To support
smooth full-motion video, which is at the core of multimedia and gaming, the
drive has to pump large quantities of data through the system. That being the
case, buyers at that level should opt for a drive that's not only large enough
to hold the large files they'll be dealing with, but one that's faster than
those found in entry level systems. The two speeds most commonly found on
desktop systems are 5,400 and 7,200 rpm.
The Display Card
Once you get beyond basic tasks, and move into multimedia and games, the display
card becomes an important factor in the system's overall performance. For the
most part, this means choosing a dedicated display card rather than embedded
graphics. The only true high-performance embedded graphics system comes from
Intel, and goes by the name Extreme Graphics 2. High-end gaming is beyond the
capabilities of Extreme Graphics 2-based systems, but for other multimedia
chores it's a surprisingly capable alternative to a separate display card.
For the most part, name brand systems above entry level will come with a separate display card. In the case of systems that allow you to modify the base configuration, the starting point may be embedded video, with one or more separate cards available as an option. The obvious advantage of a separate display adapter is that it's equipped with its own memory. That memory will be inherently faster than the embedded adapter's shared system RAM. The amount of memory installed on a display card can vary from 32 to 256MB, with the highest numbers intended to meet the needs of--guess who--gamers.
Beyond that, a separate card will be more able to deal with the demands of
applications that place full-motion 3D graphics on the screen. It can also offer
features that aren't available from an embedded graphics system. These include
outputs for different types of displays, including TV and digital flat panels,
and the ability to run more than one screen at a time. Some display cards also
include a TV tuner, both for on-screen viewing and to allow the system to record
programs to the hard drive, emulating a TIVO box.
Some of these capabilities are likely to be beyond the needs of a first-time PC
buyer, but it's worth keeping them in mind. The cost of upgrading a system from
embedded to dedicated graphics will, of course, depend on the card, and on what
the manufacturer offers with a given system. One company offers a pair of 128MB
cards as alternatives to the base Extreme Graphics 2 configuration. The first,
for $70, has a TV output and is a good choice for standard multimedia, such as
video editing. The other, for $200, also had a TV output, but adds a digital
video output to the mix. More important, though, is the fact that it's designed
to meet the exacting requirements of gamers.
The Monitor
Since you'll spend all of your computer time looking at the monitor, it makes
sense to get one that's easy on the eye. The majority of today's monitors use
the same CRT technology as a standard TV set. The primary advantages to this
technology are low price and the inherent ability to run at any of several
screen resolutions. The main drawback to a CRT monitor is its size and weight,
which becomes a serious concern as you get into screen sizes larger than 17
inches.
The alternative to a CRT monitor is one that uses an LCD (liquid crystal
display) screen similar to that of a laptop computer. While LCD monitors cost
more than their CRT-based counterparts, the prices have come down dramatically
over the past two years. The biggest advantage of an LCD is its compact size and
light weight. Beyond that, some models also allow you to pivot the screen 90
degrees, which can be convenient when using a word processor or page layout
program. LCDs aren't without their own drawbacks, though. Aside from being more
expensive than CRTs, they only look good at their native resolution, and some
models don't respond quickly enough to display full- motion video without
ghosting of the image.
The Sound Card
As with video, a system's audio capabilities can either be embedded on the
motherboard or installed in the form of a separate card. In either case, at the
entry level an audio system's primary goal is to let you listen to music in
two-channel stereo. It will also allow you to connect a microphone, although
it's unlikely that one in a thousand PC entry-level users will ever do so. Even
at this level, the quality of the audio signal is almost certain to be better
than the speakers supplied with entry-level systems can deliver. What you'll
hear is likely to be similar in quality to that of a cheap boombox. This is
certainly adequate for casual background music, and the occasional
you've-got-mail announcement. However, if you're a music lover who cares even a
little about sound quality, the first thing to do is upgrade the speakers. Doing
so will go a long way towards allowing the PC to serve double duty as a desktop
stereo system.
Even at the basic level, a PC's sound system will allow you to connect an
external source, such as a cassette player, for recording. However, if your
audio needs are that sophisticated it makes sense to upgrade the audio card when
buying the PC. That way you'll get better sound quality along with some
potentially useful features. Gamers will want support for the various types of
3D encoding associated with many games, and outputs for front and back speakers
so directional audio cues will be heard properly. Film lovers might look for
direct support for the surround-sound technologies associated with movies on
DVD. Although the best surround-sound will be obtained by using the appropriate
number of speakers, good sound cards, and their supporting software, can create
a convincing surround effect with just the front speakers.
Optical Drives
No matter how basic a PC is, it will need at least a CD-ROM drive. That's
because most commercial programs are published on that medium. A CD-ROM drive
will also let you play music CDs and rip them to the hard drive in a compressed
form such as MP3. Upgrading to a DVD-ROM drive gives you all of the CD-ROM
drive's capabilities, and adds the ability to read software published on DVD-ROM
(not a big issue) and play standard DVD movies. Expect to pay $20-40 for that
upgrade.
The next step up is to a CD-RW drive, which adds CD burning capability to the mix, but eliminates the ability to play DVDs. This upgrade, over the standard CD-ROM, should run about $50. Some manufacturers offer a combination CD-RW/DVD-ROM drive upgrade, which runs about $100. We'd be inclined to recommend against this, since for the same money (or sometimes less) you can get both a DVD-ROM and a CD-RW drive. Having two drives makes copying CDs much more convenient, as you can put the source disc in the DVD-ROM drive and the blank in the CD-RW drive.
The final frontier in optical drives is the DVD burner, which offers all of
the capabilities of a CD-RW and DVD-ROM drive and adds the ability to burn DVDs.
This means you can take the video footage you've transferred to the hard drive,
edit it into a finished production, and burn it to a disc that will play on a
home DVD player. There are two DVD burning formats to consider, and we discuss
them both in the story on optical drives elsewhere in this guide. Be prepared to
spend $100 or so for the one-format DVD burner of your choice, or a bit more for
one that's capable of operating in either format.
Communications
To access the Internet you'll need either a modem (for a dial-up connection over
the phone line) or a network adapter (for a broadband connection via cable or
DSL). Basic versions of these devices are often incorporated on the motherboard.
If not, they're so inexpensive that many manufacturers include them as part of
all but their very cheapest systems. If you're looking at a system that doesn't
include them, figure on spending $10-20 each to add them.
Connectivity
Until recently, computers needed to have an array of different ports available
to connect various external devices such as the keyboard, mouse, printer, and
scanner. Printers, for example, generally connected via the parallel port, while
the keyboard and mouse used PS/2 ports. While many of today's PCs still offer
these so-called legacy ports, the trend is to connect as many external devices
as possible through the USB (for Universal Serial Bus) channel. If you're
inheriting an older parallel-only printer, make sure your new PC has a parallel
port. Otherwise, an array of USB ports should be all you need. The only
significant exception to this applies if you're likely to connect a digital
camcorder to the system. In that case, you'll also want a FireWire (also known
as IEEE 1394) connector.
But Wait, There's More
So far we've confined out discussion to the basic PC. When planning your budget
it's important to bear in mind some of the other hardware that could be useful.
Do you want a printer or scanner? What about a surge protector to help protect
the system from the electric company's occasional hiccup? In a similar vein,
during a power failure an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) will keep the
system running long enough to save your data and shut down normally. It can even
be set to perform those chores automatically when a power failure is detected.
Then there's software. Some companies equip their systems with a full-fledged
productivity suite (word processor, spreadsheet, etc.) and a generous selection
of additional applications. Others provide a list of available software, and let
you choose--and pay for--what you want when you order the system. Some supply
only the Windows operating environment and the applications needed to take
advantage of the optical drives' capabilities. If the system you buy doesn't
come with all the software you need, don't blow the entire budget on hardware.
The Warranty
We wouldn't dream of buying a new computer without at least a one year warranty
on parts and labor. Nor would we dream of paying a great deal -- more than $50
or so -- to extend that warranty beyond one year unless the system itself cost
well over $1,000. In our experience, if a fairly basic PC needs service at all
it will generally be within the first few months. Similarly, any component that
survives the first year is likely to be fine for the next two. That being the
case, paying to upgrade the warranty to three years (a common choice) probably
won't pay.
A more complex system, by contrast, is likely to run hotter, and heat is the
enemy of all electronic components. Since that system is at greater risk of
needing service, and because the cost of a longer warranty will be a small
percent of the total price, we'd opt for a three year warranty if it isn't
already part of the package. Make sure, too, that the warranty covers on-site
service, ideally on the next business day.
Tech Support
Given that first-time buyers are likely to need tech support from time to time,
a manufacturer's policies in that area are important. Ideally, you'll get
toll-free phone 24 hours a day, seven days a week, for the life of the system.
Such support is typically provided for hardware-based problems, but many
companies also provide some support--90 days is typical--for software they
install. Most of the major companies also maintain Web sites on which, although
intended primarily as a sales tool, offer on-line support that can include FAQ
(frequently asked questions) documents, downloadable upgrades, and e-mail and/or
chat access to technicians. One of the best ways to find out how well a company
lives up to its support promise is by asking friends, colleagues, and relatives
about their experiences.
Where to Buy
A vast number of computers are bought sight-unseen, either over the Internet or
by phone. Those computers come from a handful of what are called first-tier
companies, whose sales make up the lion's share of the PC pie. Because most
computer buyers are not buying their first systems, and therefore have some
experience under their belts, this process is a good way for them to get
precisely what they want. The first-time buyer can do equally well in that
environment, but would be wise to enlist the aid of a more experienced guide to
smooth his or her path and help in answering the questions that might come up
during negotiations. The same advice holds true in the case of mail-order
retailers that aren't sales arms of a single manufacturer. These outfits offer
computers from a variety of manufacturers, and often have their own house brands
as well.
The alternative to mail order is to go to a store that sells computers, pick one out, and bring it home. Ah, but what kind of store? Computers are sold by manufacturer-owned stores, office supply chains, discount stores, warehouse outlets, and maybe even some of the larger gas station convenience stores. For the most part, these outlets sell name-brand systems at attractive prices. Some retail outlets offer a money-back guarantee ranging from a week to 30 days, but when it comes to warranty and support you have to rely on the system's manufacturer.
What about a local computer store? Well, we can wax nostalgic about mom & pop storefronts as wistfully as anyone you'll meet, but in the cold light of dawn those operations don't enjoy the economies of scale that deliver competitive pricing. In other words, they're going to have to charge more than the area BulkMart will for the equivalent product. If the price differential isn't dramatic, and the mom & pop outfit compensates by offering a level of personalized service that is likely to be important to first-time buyers, it could be worth paying a bit extra. This is especially true if they're selling name-brand systems that also include a factory-supported warranty and tech support. If, however, mom & pop assemble the systems themselves, in the back room, they might be your sole source of support. Even if they've been in business for 20 years, and you're confident they'll be around when you need them, it's not likely they'll be taking calls at midnight on Sunday. That being the case, ask if the system comes with third-party tech support that will be available whenever you need it.
Regardless of where you buy the computer, be sure to use a credit card. That
way, if it's damaged in shipping or there's another problem early on you have
more than one avenue of recourse. Beyond that, look for a trial period of the
type we mentioned in connection with large retail establishments. Some
direct-sale manufacturers and mail order companies offer similar protection,
although you'll probably have to pay for shipping shipping. Some companies,
primarily retailers, will charge a restocking fee of up to 15 percent if you
return a system for credit. Add that to two-way shipping on an entry level
system, and you'll wind up paying a serious percentage of the system's retail
price even if you decide to return it.